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  3. 2000

Day 4 Byrness to Kirk Yetholm.

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In the morning we found that it was raining but by the time we left at 10:00 it had eased off. For the first 100m we heard a terrible grinding noise, a little like a bag of nails being scrunched around. It didn't take us long to trace this to Bert’s back wheel which had two broken spokes.
We went to a bus stop on the main road were we found a drain cover with the correct spacing for our block removal tool. After an hour of fiddling and a few grazed knuckles the wheel had a full set of spokes and was round. While we were doing this a man came to clean the bus stop and recommended a pub in Bonchester Bridge. So without further ceremony we made our way there, stopping only for the obligatory photo at Carter Bar, and were soon ensconced in the Horse and Hounds with a pub lunch and an excellent pint of MacEwans 80/-. Outside it had started to rain again.

Carter Bar, the Scotland / England border.



When the rain stopped we resisted the temptation of further beer and took the B6357 to Jedburgh where Bert did the shopping and we rested in the brightening sunshine.
The last couple of miles in to Jedburgh were on the A68 and pretty unpleasant so we were pleased to find an alternative route north which runs on the east side of the river. It is signposted as Sustrans route 4. We followed the main roads to Morebattle where we found the curiously named ‘Teapot Street’, and happily there was a shop selling ice cream.

The sign for 'Teapot Street'.


It didn't take long to reach the Youth Hostel at Kirk Yetholm where we found two volunteer wardens in charge. While the rest of us showered etc., Bert cooked the best meal of the tour, lasagne. Now everyone knows that cyclists get hungry and eat big meals, but Bert was taking no chances with us being left hungry. The salad would have been a meal in itself, but when the Lasagne arrived it was clear that we were beat. The wardens were sharing our table in the fairly cramped kitchen, and it wasn't long before they were sharing our meal as well. There was enough for eight, but the four of us and the two wardens managed to finish it all eventually. We all agreed it was the best lasagne we had ever tasted.

It was a quiet night in the pub for us that night as we had left little room for beer, it was in the pub that we heard about the Concorde crash in Paris which had happened earlier that day.

Day 5 Kirk Yetholm to Wooler.

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In the morning we discovered that Bert had two more broken spokes. We replaced these as we had done the day before but the wheel did not look good. Bert's plan was to cycle back to Chollerford to pick up his car, it looked doubtful whether he would make it. So he phoned his Mum from Town Yetholm and arranged to meet her in Jedburgh.
The three remaining intrepid cyclists set off north to Coldstream in the brightening sunshine. There we found a very nice tearoom and bakers where we stocked up on provisions. Soon it was a warm summers day as we made our way along the north side of the River Tweed which we crossed to reach Norham Castle.

A thatched pub in Northumberland with excellent beer.


   

Here we had lunch and a tour guided by a cassette walkman. We reckoned that the batteries must be going flat, no real person has a voice that deep and speaks so slowly, or do they?

The castle was suitably impressive but we were keen to press on to Etal and the only thatched pub in Northumberland.
The beer was also excellent, so much so that we missed the steam train which goes to Ford and did not have time to look at Etal Castle.
We then headed south to Ford and took a 'shortcut' which degenerated in to a sandy track. Eventually it came out on to the main road and we made our way through Fenton to Wooler. This hostel has been extended quite a bit but is still very comfortable, they still have the wood stove in the common room although there was no need for it with the current warm weather.
That night we went to the local S+N pub at the end of the street. There they served Scotch, Ex and Broon and the wallpaper was peeling off. It was just like being a teenager again.

Day 6 Wooler to Coldingham Bay.

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St. Anne's church, Ancroft.


   

After stocking up on pies in the high street in Wooler we headed north up the B6525 to Ancroft and the 11thC church St. Anne’s.
Had a good look round the church and learned something of it's history before continuing on in the extreme heat to Swinton.
Here we had lunch on the village green and then a pint of excellent Caledonian 80/- in The Wheatsheaf Hotel. We sat outside because at first we could not find a bar inside, only a dining room with men in suits and ladies in dresses. Later we found that there was a bar but by this time we had to hit the road again. Worth going back for the beer though. In the heat of the afternoon we struggled on up to Chirnside and there we lay down on a grass verge for a rest. I was just listening to the grasshoppers and dozing when Alan said, "What’s that?" He had spotted a large bulge in the side wall of his front tyre. On investigation we found that the tyre was coming away from the bead wire, a manufacturing defect. it's funny that the newest bike has the most faults. As a result of this we decided to head for Eyemouth, it was nearly on our way and there may be a bike shop there. Well Eyemouth was bright breezy and sunny but no bike shop. The tearoom made up for our disappointment and luckily the funeral party which were having tea and sandwiches in there were just leaving. There is a stiff climb northwards out of Eyemouth but we were rewarded with great views out to sea.

We then headed for Coldingham Bay where we dabbled our feet in the sea. The Youth Hostel is on the cliff overlooking the bay, some of the rooms enjoy this view, ours didn't. Carter arrived in the early evening for his now traditional meet the troops night and we ate out at the restaurant on the edge of the sands. Food was good, company excellent and a good night was had by all.

  1. Day 7 Coldingham Bay to Wooler.
  2. Day 8 Wooler to Dunston.

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